

|
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andre
leon arbus (art deco, designer, 1903-1969)
After
graduating from the Ecole des Beaux Arts, Arbus joined his father's
Toulouse cabinet making firm, which he later headed. Exhibiting
in the Paris Salons from 1926 onwards, he moved to the capital
in I930.
Arbus
was awarded the Prix Blumenthal in 1935 and exhibited at the great
International Exhibitions in Brussels (1935), Paris(1937) and
New York (1939).
He
ended the firm's production of Furniture in eighteenth century
styles, his own designs were very much inspired by the more stylised
classicism of the French Empire.
He
rejected the rhetoric of the UAM, continuing his workshop system
and incorporating luxurious veneers, bleached animal hide vellum
and gilt mounts in his furniture.
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Norman
Bel Geddes (art
deco, designer, 1893-1958)
After
studying briefly at the Art Institute of Chicago, Bel Geddes worked
in a Chicago advertising agency designing posters for General
Motors and Packard.
In
1918 he began a successful career as a stage set
designer before turning to industrial design in 1927. Despite
commissions for the Toledo Scale Co. (1929), and the Standard
Gas Equipment Corp. (1932). it was as polemicist of Modernity
that Bel Geddes gained greatest recognition.
His
book Horizons (1932) was a manifesto for Modern streamlining which
promoted a series of futuristic designs for buildings and transport
systems.
Bel
Geddes' positivist vision of a streamlined future reached its
apogee with his' futurama '' Metropolis of Tomorrow' for the General
Motors Highways and Horizons Pavilion at the 1939 New York World's
Fair.
In
1958 Norman Bel Geddes died on 8th of May. In 1960 his autobiography,
Miracle in the Evening, was published.
He is the father of actress Barbara Bel Geddes
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A.M
Cassandre (art deco,
designer, 1901-1968)
Born
Adolphe Jean-Marie Mouron, Cassandre studied painting and was
a friend of many leading figures in Parisian avant-garde society
of the 1920s, including Apollinaire, Fernand Leger and Erik Satie.
His posters combined bold images with a stylised simplicity and
Modern typefaces.
In
1927
he founded an advertising agency, Alliance Graphique with Charles
Loupot and Maurice Moyrand. Cassandre designed three typefaces:
Bifur ( 1929), L'Acier ( 1930) and Peignet (1937).
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Pierre
Chareau (art deco, designer,
1883-1950)
Born
in Bordeaux, Chareau first exhibited at the Salon d' Automne in
1914. Trained as an architect, he exhibited in the 1925 Paris
Exposition as both an architect and a decorator.
The
bold curves and luxurious contrasting of exotic woods in his earlier
furniture gave way in the later 1920s to a more functionalist
inspired aesthetic.
As
a founder member of the UAM, Chareau's belief in the relationship
between form and function was reaffirmed, and from 1932 to 1938
he undertook detailed research into the development of mobile
room partitions.
Chareau
received commissions to design interiors from, among others, Mallet-Stevens,
and his most celebrated architectural work was his 1931 collaboration
with the Dutch architect Bijvoet on the Mason deVerre, famed for
its revolutionary use of glass brick walls and mobile room partitions.
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Serge
Chermayeff (art deco,
designer, 1900-)
Born
in the Caucasus, Chermayeff was educated in England. His career
from 1924 until his emigration to America in 1939 illustrates
the gradual hardening of Modernist attitudes in Britain in the
1930s.
Nevertheless,
Chermayeff's work always retained a lyrical quality which set
it apart from many of his less inspired contemporaries.
From
1921 to 1927, Chermayeff was chief designer to the London decorating
firm F. Williams Ltd before progressing to director of Waring
& Gillows's 'Modern Art Studio', for which he designed luxurious
modernistic furniture.
He
joined the Modernist group MARS in the early 1930s, and worked
with the German emigre Erich Mendelsohn, with whom he designed
the celebrated De La Warr Pavilion at Bexhill on Sea, Sussex.
His
pioneering designs for the furniture manufacturer PEL introduced
the use of tubular steel in Britain. During the same period Chermayeff
also designed radio cabinets for Ecko
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Clarice
Cliff (art
deco, designer, 1899-1972)
She
began her career as an enameller at the age of thirteen and by 1916
her long standing collaboration with A.J.Wilkinson had begun.
In
1927, after studying at the RCA in London, she returned
to Wilkinsons, who introduced her 'Bizzare' wares in 1929.
At
first, the Bizzare line simply consisted of her colourful painting
on standard forms, but by the early 1930s, new geometric forms
were evolved to accommodate her innovative style.
In
1935,
she produced a number of other lines for Wilkinsons but after the
Bizzare wares were discontinued in 1941 she became more involved
in Wilkinsons administration.
- 1899
-- Born on January 20th 1899 in Tunstall, Stoke-on-Trent.
- 1912
-- Started work at the age of 13 in 'The Potteries'.
- 1916
-- Moved to the AJ Wilkinson's pottery factory.

- 1927
-- Clarice set up her own studio. Bizarre wares launched.
- 1940
-- Clarice married her boss, Colley Shorter and moved to Chetwynd
House.
- 1964
-- The factory stopped producing pottery bearing Clarice's name.
Following
Colley Shorter's death Clarice sold the factory to Midwinter.
- 1972
-- First Clarice Cliff exhibition takes place at Brighton in
1972.
- 1972
-- Clarice Cliff dies suddenly at Chetwynd House on 23rd October
1972.
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Susie Cooper
(art deco, designer, 1902-)

Despite
early ambitions to become a fashion designer, Susie Cooper emerged
as one of the most important ceramic designers and producers of
the century.
Her
interest in ceramics was awakened in 1922 and she initially worked
with A. E. Gray & Co.
In
1929 she established her own atelier, and her factory produced
breakfast sets, tea sets and dinner ware for a largely middle-class
market.
Her
designs are reported to have caused a sensation at the 1922 British
Industries Fair where she sold a clown decorated, triangular lamp
base, to a member of the Royal family.
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Michel
die Klerk
(art
deco, designer, 1884-1923)
After
collaborating with J.M. van der Mey and Piet Kramer on the Scheepvaarthuis
in Amsterdam, de Klerk went on to establish himself as perhaps
the most prominent architect of the Amsterdam School.
In
his celebrated housing schemes such as Het Scheep in Amsterdam,
de KIerk married an adventurous plasticity and strong sense of
geometry with an appreciation of traditional Dutch forms and shapes.
Unlike
his architecture, de Klerk's furniture was luxurious and expensive,
and of 200 pieces made, only about 25 are known to survive.
A
suite designed in 1916 was exhibited posthumously at the 1925
Paris Exposition.
De
Klerk's importance to contemporary design was reflected in the
fact that the Dutch magazine Wendingen devoted six special issues
to his work.
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Sonia
Delaunay (art deco,
designer, 1885-1979)
Born
in Ukraine, Sonia Delaunay (nee Stern, Terk) trained as a painter
before moving to Paris in 1905 and she married the painter Robert
Delaunay (1885-1941) in 1910.
As
early as 1912 Sonia was designing embroidery and bookbindings
alongside her abstract paintings, and after the loss of her private
income in 1917 (as a result of the Russian Revolution) she became
more preoccupied with her design work.
After
spending time in Madrid during the First World War, she opened
her Atelier Simultane in Paris, designing fashion, textiles and
interiors.
At
the 1925 Paris Exposition she ran the Boutique Simultanee where
she achieved fame as a designer of modern fashions.
In
the 1930's the Delaunays concentrated on public art and advertising,
and at the 1937 Paris Exposition they designed a series of large
murals
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Donald Deskey
(art deco, designer, 1894-1989)
Deskey
was unusual among the leading proponents of Art Deco design in
America in that he was actually born there rather than arriving
as an emigre from Europe.
A
visit to Paris in 1925 led Deskey to focus on interior and furniture
design. His early successes were designs for screens, and in 1927
he entered into partnership with Phillip Vollmer, creating the
decorating firm Deskey - Vollmer Inc.
He
worked for wealthy private clients in the 1920's but Deskey became
more interested in designs suited for mass production in the 1930s.
Archives
suggest that some 400 designs for furniture, rugs and textiles
by Deskey were put into production.
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Djo
Bourgeois (art
deco, designer, 1898-1937)
Djo
Bourgeois was part of the youngest generation of French Art Deco
designers who were subsequently attracted to the ethics and aesthetics
of Modernism towards the end of the 1920s.
Born
in Bezons (Seine et Oise), Djo Bourgeois graduated from the Ecole
Speciale d'Architecture in 1922.
In
1923 he joined Le Studium Louvre and began exhibiting at the Salon.
Le Studium Louvre saw his adventurously Modern designs as providing
an opportunity to compete with the work of Charlotte Perriand
and Mallet-Stevens.
At
first Djo Bourgeois preferred lacquered wood and glass, but soon
discovered steel, aluminium and concrete.
He
left Le Studium Louvre in 1929. His last exhibit before his death
was a dining room with moveable partitions at the 1936 Salon.
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Maurice
Dufrene (art deco,
designer, 1876-1955)
A
founder member of the Societe des Artistes Decorateurs, Dufrene
with Leon Jallot, was among the group of French designers who
became known as the Constructeurs, before the First World War.
Dufrene
had worked on Meier-Graefe's 'La Maison Moderne' around 1900 designing
in the Art Nouveau style.
By
1910, his work adapted more simplified forms using more substantial
materials and construction.
Dufrene's
open acceptance of mass production in the 1920s, when he became
the artistic director of the studio La Maitrise led to a prolific
output.
At
the 1925 Paris Exposition, as well as the La Maitrise pavilion,
Dufrene designed the 'petit salon' in the 'Ambassade Francaise',
a boutique for the furrier Jungman, and the row of shoes on the
Pont Alexandre Ill.
Dufrene's
stylistic development continued into the 1930s when he experimented
with steel and glass.
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Jean
Dunand (art deco, designer,
1877-1942)
Although
he began his career as a sculptor and producer of decorative objects,
Dunand became interested in lacquer from 1909 and it is for his
lacquered panels, furniture and interiors that he is best remembered.
He
exhibited throughout the inter war years, co-designing the smoking
room of the Ambassade Francaise at the 1925 Paris Exposition.
By
1921 he was producing and exhibiting large pieces of lacquer furniture,
Dunand contributed to the three great French ocean liners of the
period, the lle de France ( 1928), the Atlantique (1931) and the
Normandie ( 1935).
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Paul
Follot (art deco, designer,
1877-1941)
Like
Dufrene Follot was part of the older generation of Art Deco designers
who had developed their style from Art Nouveau. 
Follot
worked at La Maison Moderne between 1901 and 1903. He became independent
in 1904, designing furniture, lighting, carpets, clocks and jewellery.
His
style combined simplified traditionally inspired forms with rich
decoration, and his work before the First World War represented
an exercise in modern decoration which provided a blueprint for
much of the more traditional French Art Deco which reached its
apex at the 1925 Paris Exposition, to which Follot made a large
contribution.
In
1923 Follot became director of design at the Pomone studios of
Au Bon Marche before moving to Waring and Gillow's Paris office
in 1928 where he worked with Serge Chermayeff.
After
1931 Follot returned to independent practice and in 1935 he received
a commission for the ocean liner Normandie as well as exhibiting
at the Brussels Exposition.
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Paul
Theodore Frankl (art
deco, designer, 1886-1962)
Born
in Prague, Frankl together with his fellow European Joseph Urban,
was one of the pioneering Modern designers working in America
before 1925, who laid the foundations of the American tradition
of modern decoration.
After
spending some time in Berlin and Copenhagen, Frankl left for America
in 1914 and set up in business in New York. Although at first
describing himself as an architect, in 1922 he opened a gallery
at 4e, 48th Street which sold a variety of his designs for furniture,
as well as modern textiles and wallpapers imported from Europe.
His
influence as a designer was compounded by his polemical pro-Modern
publications: New Dimensions, Form and Re-Form, Machine Age Leisure,
Spaces for Living, and Survey of American Textiles.
In
1926 he introduced his celebrated skyscraper furniture, before
turning to metal furnishings in the 1930s.
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Gill
(art deco, designer, 1882-1940)
Despite
a diverse body of work, Gill is best remembered for his sculpture
and his typography.
His
sans serif typeface, designed in 1928 for the Monotype Corporation,
became synonymous with Modern graphic design. Ironically so, as
Gill's work and philosophy was based on craft and catholicism.
Gill's
stylised sculpture was also chosen to adorn another monument to
the modern age, BBC Broadcasting House in Portland Place, London
(1929-31).
In
1937 Gill was elected associate of the Royal Academy and awarded
honorary apprenticeship of the Royal Society of British Sculptors.
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Josef
Gocar (art deco, designer,
1880-1945)
Gocar
was a leading exponent of Czech cubist design in the 1910s, co-founding
the Prague Artistic Workshops in 1912.
He
had trained at the School of Decorative Arts in Prague between
1906 and 1908 after which he worked for Jan Kotera, 'the founder
of modern Czech architecture'.
Between
1922 and 1939, Gocar was Professor at the Academy of Fine Arts
and in 1925 he was awarded the Grand Prix for the design of the
Czechoslovak Pavilion at the Paris Exposition.
Gocar's
furniture is among the most exciting and original of the period,
with a literal attempt to translate the idea of cubism into three
dimensions at its heart.
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Eileen
Gray (art deco,
designer, 1878-1976)
Neglected
for most of her career, Eileen Gray is now regarded as one of
the most important furniture designers and architects of the early
20th century and the most influential woman in those fields. Her
work inspired both modernism and Art Deco.
Eileen
Gray was to stand alone throughout her career first as a lacquer
artist, then a furniture designer and finally as an architect.
At a time when other leading designers were almost all male and
mostly members of one movement or another she remained independent.
Her
design style was as distinctive as her way of working, and Gray
developed an opulent, luxuriant take on the geometric forms and
industrially produced materials used by the International Style
designers, such as Le Corbusier, Charlotte Perriand and Mies Van
Der Rohe, who shared many of her ideals. Her voluptuous leather
and tubular steel Bibendum Chair and clinically chic E-1027 glass
and tubular steel table are now as familiar as icons of the International
Style as Le Corbusier and Perriand’s classic Grand Confort
club chairs, yet for most of her career she was relegated to obscurity
by the same proud singularity that makes her work so prized today.
From
County Wexford, Ireland Eileen Gray was born into an aristocratic
family. She entered the Slade School of Art in London in 1898
and moved to Paris in 1902 where she spent the rest of her life,
interrupted only by the two world wars.
She
was celebrated for her exotic use of lacquer, the technique that
she learned from Sougaware, a Japanese master. Gray studied with
Sugiwara for four years. Lacquer work was not only painstaking,
but perilous. Like many people who come into close contact with
it, she contracted a painful lacquer disease on her hands. She
slowly refined her technique to create stark forms with simple
geometric decorations. This simplicity was, however, as much a
product of the complexity of the process as of Gray's aesthetic
preferences. It was not until 1913 that she felt confident enough
to exhibit her work by showing some decorative panels at the Salon
des Artistes Décorateurs. They attracted the attention
of the Duchess of Clermont-Tonnerre and the couturier Jacques
Doucet, who bought one of her panels at the Salon and commissioned
other pieces of lacquer work from Eileen for his Paris apartment.
Although
Gray did not exhibit consistently at the Salons, she ran her own
establishment, the jean Desert Gallery from 1922 until 1930.
Gray's
furniture has been characterized as 'luxurious and theatrical'
and the gallery never achieved commercial success, although it
was supported by sales of her popular carpets..
- 1878
- Born Kathleen Eileen Moray, the youngest of five children,
at Brownswood, near Enniscorthy in County Wexford, Ireland.
The children are later renamed Gray after their mother’s
wealthy, aristocratic family.

- 1900
- Studies at the Slade School of Art in London and visits the
International Exposition in Paris with her mother.
- 1902
- Moves to Paris with friends from the Slade to continue her
painting studies.
- 1905
- Returns to London to care for her mother during an illness,
begins studying lacquer technique at a workshop in Soho.
- 1906
- Back in Paris she studies with the Japanese lacquer craftsman,
Seizo Sugawara. The following year she moves into an apartment
on rue Bonaparte.
- 1913
- Exhibits lacquer work at the Salon des Artistes Décorateurs
and is commissioned by her first important client, the couturier
Jacques Doucet.
- 1915
- Spends World War I in London with Sugawara working from a
studio in Chelsea.
- 1919
- Returning to Paris, Gray creates her first complete interior
for an apartment on rue de Lota, which leads to other commissions
for lacquerwork and interiors.
- 1922
- Opens Galerie Jean Désert in collaboration with the
architecture critic Jean Badovici to sell rugs, furniture and
lighting. Introduces tubular steel to her furniture.
- 1923
- Exhibits the Boudoir-bedroom de Monte-Carlo at the Salon des
Artistes Décorateurs. Encouraged by favourable press
comment, she begins small-scale architecture studies.
- 1927
- Collaborates with Jean Badovici on the design of E. 1027,
a house on the cliffs at Roquebrune near Monaco.
- 1930
- Galerie Jean Désert closes. Eileen and Badovici present
plans for the now completed E.1027 at the first Union des Artistes
Modernes exhibition.
- 1932
- Begins construction of her second house, Tempe à Pailla.

- 1937
- At Le Corbusier’s invitation, exhibits her plans for
a Vacation Centre in his Pavilion des Temps Nouveaux at the
Paris Exposition. Gray does not attend the opening and begins
a long period of reclusion.
- 1940
- During World War II Tempe à Pailla is looted and the
flat in Saint-Tropez where Gray stored many of her posessions
is bombed. Isolated in Provence, Gray’s wartime work is
limited to gouaches, unrealised architectural schemes and revisions
of her furniture.
- 1954
- Begins construction of her third house, Lou Pérou,
near Saint-Tropez.
- 1968
- After years of neglect, Gray’s work is the subject of
an article by Joseph Rykwert in Domus magazine.
- 1970
- Exhibitions of Gray’s architecture are organised in
Graz and Vienna.
- 1972
- The revival of interest in Gray is enhanced by an auction
in Paris of the contents of Jacques Doucet’s apartment
and an exhibition at the Royal Institute of British Architects
in London. Zeev Aram, a London furniture maker, reproduces three
pieces of her furniture.
- 1976
- Eileen Gray dies in her apartment on rue Bonaparte in Paris
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Oliver
Hill (art deco, designer,
1887-1968)
Hill
attended evening classes at the Architectural Association, London.
After the First World War he returned to practice becoming a fashionable
society architect working predominantly in the neo-georgian and
neo-vernacular styles.
After
1930 Hill designed a number of buildings in the modern style,
although his ambiguous relationship with the more doctrinaire
elements in the Modern Movement is embodied in his use of decoration.
While
Joldwynds (1933) and his scheme for Frinton (1933) appear to belong
firmly to the Modern Movement, at the Midland Hotel, Morecambe
(1934), he used Erie Gill and Erie Ravilious for decorative assistance.
Hill
also designed the British Pavilion for the Exposition Internationale
in Paris, 1937.
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Josef
Hoffman (art deco,
designer, 1870-1956)
Josef Hoffmann studied architecture at the Academy of Fine Arts
in Vienna, Austria, under Art Nouveau architect Otto Wagner, whose
theories of functional, modern architecture profoundly influenced
his works.
In
1903
Hoffmann co-founded the Wiener Werkstatte, and his stewardship
of the workshop lasted until 1931.
Hoffmann
studied under Otto Wagner at the Academy of Fine Arts in Vienna
and had also been a founding member of the Vienna Secession in
1897.
His
influence on the Wiener Werkstatte was all pervasive. He designed
its most celebrated architectural achievements, the Purkersdorf
Sanatorium (1902-3) and the Palais Stoclet in Brussels (1909-1911),
as well as designing for all branches of decorative arts .
The
strict grid pattern which formed the basis to many of his designs,
as well as being a favoured decorative motif, earned him the nickname
'Quadrutl H Hoffmann’ (Little Square Hoffmann).
His
work for the Wiener Werkstatte was a pivotal element in the development
of a European tradition of decorative modern design, to which
the Parisian Art Deco of the 1920s provided a continuation.
In
1896,
he joined Otto Wagners office.
In
1898, he established his
own practice in Vienna.
In
1897,
inspired by charles rennie mackintosh and the Glasgow School,
he was one of the founding members, together with Gustav Klimt,
of an association of revolutionary artists and architects called
the Vienna Secession.
In
1903,
he founded with architects Koloman Moser and Joseph Maria Olbrich,
the Wiener Werkstätte for decorative arts. He is an important
precursor of the Modern Movement and the Art Deco style.
In
1905,
Hoffmann, Klimt and the Wiener Werkstätte artists, designed
the Palais Stoclet, in Brussels, the Capital of Art Nouveau and
city of Victor Horta.
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Charles
Hoiden (art
deco, designer, 1875-1960)
The
architecture of Charles Hoiden exemplifies the pragmatic compromise
that was British Art Deco.
Included
in Hoiden's early career was as an assistant to Charles
Robert Ashbee.
After
the First World War he became a member of the Design in Industries
Association, through which he met Frank Pick who commissioned
him to build new facades for existing London Underground stations
and for new stations on the extended Northern Line.
He
traveled with Pick throughout Northern Europe and his work on
the new stations on the Piccadilly Line established a brick-built,
modern house style for the Underground which echoed the work of
architects in Holland such as Dudok.
From
1931, Holden was involved in the scheme to centralise the London
University, the most prominent monument of which is the University's
Senate House in Bloomsbury.
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Raymond
Hood (art deco, designer,
1881-1934)
Educated
at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Ecole des
Beaux Arts in Paris, the early years of Hood's architectural career
were spent in obscurity.
He
was catapulted to fame in 1922 when, together with John Mead Howells,
he won the competition to design the Chicago Tribune Tower.
Despite
the fact that the building was neo-Gothic rather than Art Deco,
his remaining twelve years of practice included work on some of
the most significant American buildings of the age: the American
Radiator Building in New York (1925), which combined a more subdued
Gothic with a more confident modernity; the Rockefeller building
(1931), which he co-designed and remains an icon of Art Deco,
and the McGraw Hill Building with its terracotta exterior.
His
last commission was to design the Electricity Building at the
1933 Century of Progress exhibition in Chicago.
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Pavel
Janak (art deco, designer,
1882-1956)
After
studying under Otto Wagner at the Academy of Fine Arts in Vienna
(1906-8), Janak returned to his native Prague, where he was to
design some of the most remarkable furniture and ceramics of the
Czech cubist movement.
In
1908, he co-founded the Artel Cooperative, which proved so crucial
to the realisation of many of the cubists' designs.
Janak
joined the Group of Plastic Artists in 1911 and was one of the
editors of Umelecky Mesicnik as well as being a founder member
of the Prague Artistic Workshops in 1912.
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Betty
Joel (art deco, designer,
1894-1985)
Born
Mary Steward Lockhart in Hong Kong, Betty ]Joel was educated in
England and met David Joel while he was in the navy serving in
the Far East.
In
1918, they married and, although neither had any
formal design training, they began manufacturing furniture under
the name Betty Joel Ltd.
Early
work was in a modernized Arts and Crafts idiom, however, by the
late 1920's and early 1930’s French Art Deco influences
were clear.
Betty
Joels London showroom was at 177 Sloane Street and then 25 Knightsbridge.
The
firm's clients were wide ranging, both corporate and private.
Furniture was manufactured for the Savoy and St Jame's Palace
hotels and for many of H.S. Goodhart Rendel's projects, including
Hays Wharf.
Her
more celebrated private clients included Lord Louis Mountbatten
and the then Duchess of York.
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Francis
Jourdain (art deco,
designer, 1876-1958)
One
of the founders of the UAM, Jourdain had always held an ambivalent
attitude towards decoration. His relatively austere, angular work
exhibited at the Salon d' Automne in 1902 had effectively renounced
the Art Nouveau style of his contemporaries.
For
clients demanding luxury, his concession might be the use of a
rich veneer. As a result of his sparse style, many of his early
commissions were for public spaces rather than private interiors.
Jourdain
exhibited at the 1925 Paris Exposition and from then onwards he
began to use steel, aluminium and lacquer.
Jourdain
retired in 1939 to spend more time writing.
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Ely
Jacques Kahn (art
deco, designer, 1884-1972)
After
graduating from the Architecture School of Columbia University
in 1907, Kahn spent four years in Paris studying at the Ecole
des Beaux Arts.
He
became a partner in the firm Buchman & Fox, which he eventually
dominated, and was well placed to play an influential role on
the New York architectural scene between 1925 and 1930.
As
well as exhibiting in The Architect and the Industrial Arts at
the Metropolitan Museum in 1929, Kahn was responsible for some
of the great decorative buildings of the 1920s, such as 261 Fifth
Avenue and 2 Park Avenue with its brightly coloured terracotta
exterior by L.V. Solovon.
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Piet
Kramer (art deco, designer,
1881-1961)
Kramer
met Michel de Klerk while working in the office of the Amsterdam
architect Eduard Cuypers and he collaborated with J.M van der
Mey, another leading figure of the Amsterdam School, on the Scheepvaarthuis
in Amsterdam.
Kramer
took part in five of the Amsterdam social housing projects which
characterized the work of the school in the years 1915-1925.
The
use of brickwork to carry the abstract geometric decoration on
the facades of his buildings proved an antecedent to some of the
more flamboyant decorative exercises in Art Deco architecture,
while his use of brick also provided inspiration for the more
pragmatic approach of the suburban Art Deco of Britain.
Kramer
was also a notable furniture designer.
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Rene
Jules Lalique (art
deco, designer, 1860-1945)
Lalique's
professional career, first as a goldsmith and then, more famously,
as a glass maker, spanned both the Art Nouveau and the Art Deco
eras.
Lalique
rented his first glassworks in 1909, at Combs-la-vile near Fontainebleau.
Initially the factory produced only perfume bottles, but by the
1920s Lalique began to manufacture other works in glass such as
jewellery, mirrors, lamps, chandeliers and tableware.
He
exhibited at Paris in 1925, his celebrated glass fountain provided
both a centrepiece for the Perfume Pavilion as well as a defining
symbol of French Art Deco of the 1920s.
By
the 1930s, Lalique's innovation was challenged by other makers
such as Sabino, and even though he was in his seventies, Lalique
continued his stewardship of the firm which had grown to employ
over 600 people.
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Le
Corbusier - Charles-Eduard Jeanneret
(art deco, designer, 1887-1965)
Born
in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Le Corbusier worked under his real name,
Charles-Eduard Jeanneret until the early 1920s. 
In
1907 he travelled in Europe, meeting Josef Hoffmann
in Vienna.
From
1908 until 1909
he worked for the Paris architect Auguste Perret, and in 1910
and 1911 in the Berlin office of Peter Behrens.
In
1911,
the publication in France of his Etude sur le Mouvement d'art
decoratif en Allemagne, associated Jeanneret's name with the debate
on the role of national identity and decorative arts in France.
Indeed
it was as a decorator that Jeanneret became known in the Parisian
art world, working with such designers as Andre Groult and Paul
Poiret.
However,
through his involvement with the Purist painter Amedee Ozenfant,
Jeanneret by now known as Le Corbusier, developed the anti-decorative
theory for which he became famous.
In
1925, his Pavilion de L'Espirit Nouveau at the
Paris Exposition became an icon of the burgeoning modernist movement,
and his books The Decorative Art of Today and Towards A New Architecture,
showed that his ability as a polemicist matched his skill as a
designer.
A
founder member of the UAM, Le Corbusier is often portrayed as
representing the antithesis of Art Deco (his pavilion was marginalised
at the 1925 exhibition).
But
his work before 1920 and the influence of the modernist aesthetic
on the development of Art Deco in Europe and America from the
late 1920s, make him an important figure in the history of the
art deco style.
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Raymond
Loewy (art deco, designer,
1893-1986)
Loewy
studied electrical engineering in his native France before emigrating
to America after serving in the First World War.
Following a brief spell as window dresser at Macy's, he worked
as a fashion illustrator on Harpers Bazaar.
He
recognised the potential of applying the principles of commercial
art to the actual products of industry and in 1929 was commissioned
to modernize the Gestetner mimeograph machine.
In
1930 he set up his own design consultancy and in 1935 he revamped
the Sears Roebuck refrigerator, signing the 'Coldspot', and in
doing so brought the streamlined, white curves of the moderne
style into kitchens across America.
He
published influential futuristic designs for taxis, cars and trains
as well as designing locomotives for the Pennsylvanian Railroad
and the distinctive Greyhound Coach (1940).
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Charles
Rennie Mackintosh
(art deco, designer, 1868-1928)
Apprenticed
in his native Glasgow to the architect John Hutchinson between
1884 and 1889, Mackintosh traveled widely in Europe in the 1890s.
He
designed posters from the mid 1890s, and also exhibited at the
1896 Arts and Crafts exhibition.
In
1897 Mackintosh began the first phase of his work on the Glasgow
School of Art, which he also extended in 1907.
Other
work in Scotland included the Willow Tea Rooms (1903) and Hill
House (1904).
Despite
international acclaim, Mackintosh never achieved commercial success.
He left Glasgow in 1914, and between 1915 and 1920 he carried
out work for the industrialist W.J. Bassett-Lowke, most notably
at 78 Derngate, Northampton.
After
traveling through France in the mid 1920s, Mackintosh died of
cancer in London in 1928.
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Robert
Mallet-Stevens (art
deco, designer, 1886-1945)
Trained
at the Ecole Speciale d'Architecture (1905-10), Mallet-Stevens
built little until after the First World War.
His
work at the 1925 Paris Exposition included the cubist concrete
trees by the Martel Brothers in his Winter Garden and the distinctive
tower for his 'Pavillon du Tourism', both of which established
him as the archetypal maverick Modernist, setting an international
mould for Art Deco architects of the 1920s and 1930s.
His
most celebrated commissions were the Villa for the Viscount de
Noailles in Hyeres (1923-5), the Rue Mallet-Stevens in Auteuil
(1926-7) and the Casino at Saint Jean-de-luz (1928),
His
disregard for the social dimension of Modernism did not prevent
him assuming the presidency of the UAM in 1930, and although he
undertook commissions at the 1935 Brussels exhibition and the
1937 Paris Exposition Universalles, his work never eclipsed his
triumphs in the 1920s.
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Andre
Mare (art deco, designer,
1887-1932)
Andre
Mare was an artist, and studied at the Academie Julian Louis Sue
also trained as a painter, but turned to interior design as early
as 1905.
The
lack of design or craft training led both Sue and Mare to be grouped
with the Coloristes in Paris before the First World War.
Mare
was involved with Duchamp Villon's Maison Cubiste in 1912, while
Sue worked with Poiret until the founding of La Maison Martine
in 1912. In the same year, Sue set up his own decorating firm,
L' atelier Francais, and began his association with Mare in 1914.
This
association became a partnership in 1919 with the foundation of
La Compagnie des Arts Francaise which lasted until 1928.
Sue
et Mare worked across the spectrum of the decorative arts from
wallpapers to furniture. Their furniture used exotic woods and
was clearly inspired by traditional French styles.
At
the 1925 Paris Exposition their pavilion, Un Musee d'Art Contemporian,
rivalled Ruhlmann's and the firm also exhibited furniture in the
Ambassade Francaise and the Perfums d'Orsay boutique among other
pavilions.
The
partnership ended in 1928 and Sue continued to work in France
throughout the 1930s.
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Edward
McKnight Kauffer (art
deco, illustrator, 1890-1954)
A
poster designer and illustrator, Kauffer was an American who settled
in England. His first commission to design a poster for the Underground
Railway Co. came in 1915.
In
1921 he gave up painting and became devoted to commercial art.
His commissions reveal a portfolio of celebrated modern commercial
graphic design, his clients including: the London Transport Board,
Shell, BP, the Great Western Railway, the General Post Office,
and the Gas, Light & Coal Co.
A
fellow of the British Institute of Industrial Art and member of
the Council for Art and Industry, Kauffer was married to the celebrated
textile and carpet designer Marion Doran, another American who
came to England in the early 1920s.
The
two exhibited together in 1929.
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Koloman
Moser (art deco, designer,
1868-1918)
Studying
under Otto Wagner at the Academy of Fine Arts in Vienna, Moser,
together with Hoffmann was a founder of both the Secession and
the Wiener Werkstatte.
Although
he trained as a painter, by the late 1890s, Moser was active in
the decorative arts winning a prize at the Paris Exposition Universalle
in 1900.
His
major contribution to the Werkstatte came in his design of the
interiors of Hoffmann's Purkersdorf Sanatorium in 1905.
It
was Moser's departure in 1908 that heralded a move away from the
strict geometry of the Werkstatte's early and most influential
work.
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Dagobert
Peche (art deco, designer,
1887-1923)
Berta
Zuckerkandl described Peche as, 'the greatest genius of ornament
that Austria has possessed since the Baroque'.
Peche
trained at the technical college in Vienna and at the Academy
of Fine Arts from 1908 to 1911.
He
joined the Werkstatte in 1915, and his work characterized, and
indeed influenced the shift towards a more whimsical, folk inspired
aesthetic in the workshop.
Peche
designed the Wiener Werkstatte's Zurich branch, where he was based
from 1917 to 1918.
Although
Peche's work was not confined to any one branch of the applied
arts, it is for his delightfully ornamented small objects that
he is best remembered. His ornamental objects in chased silver
from the earlier 1920s illustrate how far the Werkstatte had moved
from Moser's geometry in the years since his departure.
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Paul
Poiret (art deco, designer,
1879-1944)
The
son of a Parisian shopkeeper, Poiret became a dress designer in
1896 after meeting Jacques Doucet.
In
1910 he visited Vienna, met Josef Hoffmann and took inspiration
from the textile and fashion designs of the Wiener Werkstatte.
He
founded his Atelier Martine in 1911 and his Maison Martine on
Fauborg Saint-Honore sold rugs, carpets and wallpapers.
Together
with his long-term collaborator, the painter Raoul Duty, Poiret
began a studio for printing textiles, La Petite Usine.
In
1908 and 1911 Poiret published volumes of his designs, which was
in itself an innovative step, and as a result he was received
warmly when he visited America in 1913.
He
continued to work in the 1920s and 1930s, but his contribution
to the 1925 Paris Exposition, three decorated barges, brought
Poiret to the edge of financial ruin.
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Gio
Ponti (art deco, designer,
1891-1979)
After
studying architecture at the Polytechnic in Milan (1918 - 21),
Ponti became a designer for Richard Ginori the Doccia ceramics
firm. 
His
work, often in a stylised and humorous classical idiom, gained
him the Grand Prix at the 1925 Paris Exposition.
As
a result of the exposure he received at Paris, he was asked to
design a range of cutlery for Christofle and a villa for the firm's
chairman.
In
1927 he left Ginori to set up an architectural
practice with Emilio Lancia, and a year later he became the founder
editor of Domus a journal which promoted the work and ideas of
the Novecento movemert,
The
Novecento, which Ponti founded together with other architects
such as Giovanni Muzio, combined tradition, decoration and a striking
modernity providing a starting point for Italian designers who,
keen to absorb what they had seen in Paris, were inspired to produce
decorative and modern pieces.
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Jean
Puiforcat (art deco,
designer, 1897-1945)
Puiforcat
joined the family firm of silversmiths while he was studying sculpture
with Louis-Aime Lejeure.
After
setting up his own workshop in 1922, Puiforcat's work came to
embody the simple geometric wing of the Art Deco idiom. Puiforcat's
objects relied on a purity of line and mathematical proportions
as opposed to applied decoration.
In
1929 he was a founding member of the UAM; however, despite his
aesthetic similarities with the Modern Movement, his refusal to
compromise in his use of silver ensured Puiforcat maintained his
status as a designer of luxury items.
In
1934 his work took a new direction when he began to produce liturgical | |