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Caring for antique ceramics
and glass
Caring for antique clocks
Caring for antique
costumes and textiles
Caring for antique
carpets and tapestry
Caring for antique
furniture
Caring for antique
jewellery and gemstones
Caring for Antique
Sculpture
Caring for antique
silver & other metalware
Caring for antique
paintings and pictures
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Caring for antique clocks, watches and barometers
requires delicate treatment as these instruments usually
suffer from careless positioning, display and over–enthusiastic
handling.
Clocks,
scientific instruments like barometers, musical boxes and
automata are likely to be harmed if subjected to direct sunlight,
extremes of temperature or damp.
A
common, but probably the worst place to place a clock is on
a mantelpiece over a working open fire. Dust can clog the
sliding or moving parts of scientific instruments and delicate
mechanisms.... so keep them in a box or in display cabinet
when not in use.
Careless
or unexpected movement can affect the workings of delicate
mechanisms too. All long case clocks and wall hung instruments,
should be screwed to the wall or to a solid wooden wall bracket
or mount.
Before
moving a mechanical object check that there are no detachable
parts; don't rely on handles but hold the object under the
base with both hands.
Secure
the pendulum of a spring clock by the clip provided or by
the spring clamp on many English bracket and mantle clocks.
Otherwise remove the pendulum and use folded or scrunched
paper to wedge the ticking crutch piece firm.
On
a long case or other weight driven clock remove the weights
and pendulum and take down the clock by separating the case
hood and movement.
If
a mechanism is set in motion while being moved, let it run
down completely.
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The must do when keeping antique clocks.
Remember....
You not only have to pay the clock dealer a good deal of money
when you purchase a nice clock, you must
spend more money maintaining it. You are now responsible for
the care and welfare of your gorgeous and expensive aquisition.
Take care of properly, if you don't, you'll be sorry.
Within
3 years or so, the oil lubricating the moving parts in your
clock will start to dry up. The wheel arbor pivots will start
grinding into the brass plates of your clock, knocking out
alignment of the wheels that drive the various clock functions,
and resulting in a loss of power, and ultimately... stoppage.
Your
clock doesn't flash a red warning light when its running out
of oil, but just like your car, it can continue to operate,
while serious damage results.
You
must oil your
clock every 3 years. In addition, you must have the clock
professionally cleaned every 6 years. Do it, and you will
avoid unnecessary damage.
What should you do if your antique clock has not been oiled
in over 4 years?
Stop
it ........
Further
running will just cause more damage. Call a professional repairer
or restiorer and have the clock completely dismantled and
repaired.
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Take care
when moving barometers.
Mercury
barometers
should be moved with special care and kept upright in transit;
if the mercury moves suddenly its weight could shatter the
glass tube.
Stick
barometers
have a little key square at the base; turn this until the
column of mercury reaches the top of the tube.
Wheel
(banjo) barometers must be corked by a specialist
before being moved.
Winding
your antique clocks.
With
long case clocks if you go away longer than the next due winding,
stop the clock to avoid damage to the escapement when it winds
down.
It
should be impossible to over-wind a mechanism; simply make
sure you only turn the key firmly to the point of resistance.
Make sure you always use the correct key for the item and
make sure it is not warped, rusty, worn or split.
To
adjust the minute hand of a clock gently turn the hands clockwise
(never anti-clockwise) with your fingertips. If the hands
jam, move the minute hand back a fraction but never back past
the hour. If this does not free them then leave the job to
a clockmaker.
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Tips
on cleaning antique clocks, barometers.
A
photographer’s soft bristle brush with built in puffer
is ideal for dusting lenses and delicate or intricate surfaces.
Less
fragile surfaces can be wiped with a soft lint free cloth.
Avoid
metal polishes which may seep into the movement or destroy
a valuable patina, like the patina on a brass carriage clock.
For
stubborn marks on a glass face use cotton wool damped in a
mild detergent solution or methylated spirits. Rinse with
damp cotton wool and buff gently with a chamois leather.
Major
cleaning of parts especially if dismantling is involved should
be left to a specialist.
Even
oiling the mechanism of a valuable clock can be risky if you
don’t know where to apply it, and too much or too thick
an oil can attract abrasive grime which can affect the mechanism.
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Antique clock repairs and restoration.
If
the mechanism stops, forcing it to go may aggravate the damage;
repairs should be left to a specialist.
Even
if they are in good working order, clocks and watches with
delicate mechanisms should be checked and serviced every three
years and those with larger stronger mechanisms every ten
years.
Problems
with winding and running:
Mantle
Clocks
- Have
you wound up your mantle clock and started
the pendulum? Mantle clocks have either a swinging pendulum
or a balance wheel to regulate time keeping. If you don't
see a pendulum attached to the back of your movement, then
your clock is regulated by a balance wheel. The pendulum/balance
wheel is driven by a powerful spring. Be sure you have wound
up the pendulum spring. Wind it up all the way. It is a
myth that you can damage a clock by overwinding. If your
clock has more than one spring, and your not sure which
arbor operates the pendulum, then wind them all. Next, reach
into the lock and gently swing the pendulum to one side
with your hand. Your clock should now be running.
If
your clock has a balance wheel, all you
need do is wind up your clock, and the wheel should automatically
start ticking.

Experts
tip?
Touching hands are guaranteed to stop your clock! Look at
the hour and minute hands closely. If they are touching,
the movement is jammed and the pendulum won't swing. Try
moving the hour hand slightly back and forth while pushing
it towards the dial in order to clear the minute hand (but
make sure it doesn't touch the dial!). If they still touch,
you can bend back the minute hand slightly towards you,
allowing clearance.
- Have
you moved your mantle clock? The reason
a mantle clock with a pendulum stops swinging after being
moved is because the clock case now leans at a slightly
different angle than at its former location.
Experts
tip:
Mantle
clock movements are adjusted so that their pendulums swing
properly when the clock case is placed on a level surface.
However, clock cases warp, or adjustments may change. So
put away your level! Simply start your pendulum swinging,
then listen carefully to the tick-toc sound. Lift the left
side of the clock slightly. Does the tick-toc sound seem
more balanced? If not, lift the right side. When you hear
an even, balanced ticking, simply shim the bottom of the
clock at that angle Your mantle should now be in perfect
"beat".
- If
your clock has a balance wheel instead of a pendulum,
you're in luck! You don't have to worry whether the clock
is level at all!

Longcase
Clocks
-
How to adjust your grandfather
clock pendulum bob:
The round brass disc on the bottom of your pendulum rod
is called the pendulum bob. The nut located on the bottom
of the bob is used to adjust your grandfather clocks time
keeping ability. If the bob is raised up, your grandfather
clock will run faster, if lowered, your grandfather clock
will run slower. You can remember this principle, with the
phrase A SHORT DOGS TAIL WAGS FASTER! Expect an accuracy
of at least 1 minute, fast or slow per week. Start by setting
your grandfather clocks time to an accurate electric or
quartz clock or watch. Check the time 24 hours later. If
the clock runs fast, turn the nut to the left (as you face
the clock) and the bob will be lowered, slowing the clock.
If the clock runs slow, turn the nut to the right, which
will push the bob up, speeding up the clock.Then reset your
grandfather clock to the correct time again. Keep a written
record of the distance you turn the nut each day and the
resulting minutes off. Do this every day until you have
zeroed in within 1 minute of the correct time. Then, switch
to checking your grandfather clock every 7 days, using the
same process until your grandfather clock keeps time within
1 minute per week.
Experts
tip :
Many grandfather clocks are designed so that one full
turn of the pendulum nut equals 1 minute per day. So,
for example, if your grandfather clock is 2 minutes fast
in a 24 hour period, turn the pendulum nut 2 full turns
to the left. Keep in mind that this rule of thumb is not
true with all grandfather clocks. And remember, mechanical
clocks are not as accurate as modern day electric or quartz
clocks! When you regulate the pendulum of your grandfather
clock, you are attempting to achieve the best time-keeping
possible from a mechanical clock between weekly windings.
During your weekly grandfather clock weight windings,
its a good idea to make it a practice to also reset the
minute hand to the exact time of day as established by
a quartz clock in the house.
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Does your grandfather clock
have two nuts attached to the pendulum rod?
Some grandfather clocks have not one but two nuts on the
bottom of the pendulum rod. If your grandfather clock has
two nuts, then you probably have a really accurate grandfather
clock! Many owners believe that the bottom nut is used as
a "lock" nut against the the top nut. Not so!
Experts
tip:
Make sure the bottom nut doesn't touch the top nut. Let
the top nut raise or lower the pendulum bob until the
most accurate timekeeping has been obtained. Then, by
turning left or right, use the weight of this nut as the
final delicate time adjustment to regulate your grandfather
clock.

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