When caring for antiques and especially antique ceramics and
glass we are caring for some of our most delicate possessions,
however ceramics and glass can also be amongst the most hard-wearing.
Cleaning is relatively simple, but repair is rather more involved.
Follow the few pointers below to ensure your items remain in first
class condition and that you don't inadvertently cause easily avoidable
damage.
 The
links above will take you to various pages to help you care for
your other antique and collectable items.
Caring for your valuable antique and collectable glass, ceramics,
pottery and porcelain
Accidental breakage is probably the
highest risk factor with ceramics or glass and you can avoid this
by careful handling and cleaning
Always make sure your hands are clean and dry before handling glass
or unglazed ceramics as greasy fingerprints can leave indelible
marks. Don't wear cotton gloves while handling ceramics or glass
as your grip will be less than normal and always pick up an item
by its soundest part, never by the handle and always support the
base.
Make sure you take care of loose parts such as lids or covers,
and check for weaknesses caused by restoration and cracks.
Sunlight, bright light, humidity
or variable temparatures shouldn't affect your glass or your ceramics
but if they have any restored areas then bright light or water can
weaken, discolour or stain the adhesives used.
If displaying valuable glass or ceramic objects in a cabinet or
on a shelf make sure it is stable. Vibrations caused by normal household
movement can cause the pieces to ‘walk’ and fall off
narrow edges. As added security and to protect your surfaces set
felt or chamois leather pads, that can be cut to fit, beneath valuable
items.
Always put a separate container within a precious vase before setting
the plant or cut flowers inside, and place another protective pad
between the inside of the vase and the container to guard against
water stains.
Only ever use sound uncracked plates or chargers as wall hangings
and always use acrylic or plastic coated wall fittings that can
be adjusted to fit the plate.
Never, ever use metal plate hangers
as they can corrode or if too tight can bite into the plate.
Never immerse low fired earthenware
such as delftware, faience or maiolica in water as they may have
an unglazed foot rims or old cracks or chips which expose the porous
surface beneath the glaze. Much safer to wipe them with cotton wool
moistened with some mild soapy water.
Items requiring special care - assuming
they are objects of antique value and kept for display only, and
which it is advisable simply to dust regularly are.
- Crackle glass; the fine surface cracks can be aggravated by
moisture.
- Unglazed low fired pottery; water and impurities will absorb
into the porous body
- Cermics with metal or ormolu fittings or items restored or mended
with iron rivets or staples.
- Cermics with gold leaf or delicate overglaze decoration which
might flake easily.
- Ancient or excavated glass or ceramic glazes with a flaking
iridescence; don't attempt to scrape or clean the surface
Glass Chandeliers.
Before dismantling a cut glass chandelier for a major clean, photograph
the piece intact, and work out a system of identifying the lustres
so that you know where to replace them.
Turn off any electrical connection and don't allow water to seep
into the hollow branches of the chandelier.
Wash the lustres in a detergent solution, checking that the metal
hooks are sound, rinse thoroughly and dry immediately to prevent
corrosion of the metal, then Polish with a soft lint free cloth.
Removing stains from antique ceramics and glass.
You may be able to shift tide marks, from glass such as wine stains
in a decanter with a solution of denture cleaner and warm water
or with acetic acid or vinegar. Just leave your chosen mixture in
the glass for 24hrs then rinse, drain and dry thoroughly.
 Methylated
spirits or pure alcohol can be tried for stains caused by alcohol
based perfumes, but change the alcohol every hour or so until the
stain has gone.
Ammonia or ordinary household bleach which contains chlorine will
remove stains on most glass, as long as there is no gilding or other
fragile decoration.
This is not suitable for ceramics as it may aggravate the stain
or cause permanent discolouration. Instead for a soft or hard paste
porcelain surface with no gilt or lustre decoration, obtain twenty
volume hydrogen peroxide from a chemist and add a few drops of ammonia.
Wear rubber gloves and dampen strips of cotton wool in the solution,
then lay them over the stain or crack and leave for about an hour.
Do not allow the strips to dry onto the surface. For improved results
the item can be placed in a plastic bag to retain the moisture.
Check regularly, and you may have to renew the dressing several
times.
Enamel painted decoration on ceramics comes to no harm using this
technique but do not use it on pale blue or greenish-blue 19thC.
enamels, as they can disappear.
Never use commercial glass cleaners on mirrors, stained glass or
leaded glass, as the chemicals in them can act as a solvent on glass
that is stained with a coloured varnish, on a gilt or varnished
frame and on lead or putty.
Remove as much dirt as possible from indoor glass with a soft chamois
leather. For more stubborn stains wipe with a cloth moistened in
warm water with a few drops of methylated spirits and some household
detergent, then rinse with clean water using a well rung out chamois
leather. Protect the frame with a piece thin card.
Where grime has built up on stained or leaded windows brush it
off gently with a soft bristled brush and as long as the surface
is stable, clean with cotton wool moistened with the same methylated
spirit and detergent solution used for mirrors.
Repairs and Restoration.
Whenever breakage occurs, as it surely will, wrap every broken
piece seperately in acid free tissue and collect even the smallest
shard. Resist any temptation to try and fit the pieces together
yourself as you will damage the nice crisp edges. Do not be tempted
to repair a valuable antique piece yourself, as modern adhesives
that are strong enough to form an effective join are usually irreversible.
If it's glass then its rare this can be mended invisibly, unless
the break is at a convenient joint. However, synthetic resins with
a refractive index similar to that of glass are now available and
cracks and holes can be filled. Chips can sometimes be ground out
with a minimum loss of value. And a professional restorer may be
able to recreate missing pieces such as a decanter stopper or the
blue glass liner of a salt.
Ceramics on the other hand, can be so skilfully repaired with modern
adhesives, and then repainted or glazed that the original damage
is almost undetectable. However, the restored area may discolour
over time, especially if it's exposed to water and some glazes can
never be faithfully reproduced.
Without the proper skill, time and patient, an amateur repair will
always appear that way and a more complicated and expensive professional
repair may be needed at a later date.
If the item is greatly valued or of significant value then take
it to a professional restorer as soon as possible.
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